Sometimes you build a model and, once finished your work, you are not satisfied at all with it. In this case you put it into the shelf, waiting for a better…inspiration.
Recently I went back on a model that I built years ago, since I wanted to improve its winter camo.
And in this case I was inspired by the new materials and techniques today avalaible to reproduce winter camouflages (i.e. white washes, chipping mediums, salt and hairspray techniques…). You can find lots of tutorials in the net as for every subject of these. Moreover, many books and magazines are available, too.
I actually used none of these for my Panzerbefehlswagen III Ausf.K (Sd.Kfz.267). I rather attempted to reproduce the look, so nice and persuasive, that you can get by means of these new techniques I was talking about. Of course, the skill of the modeller is always the primary technique.
However, I promise myself to test these new materials in the future. In this case I just used acrylic colors and pigments by soft pastels for artists.
When I painted this model I used white as the base color, then I weathered it, above all with oil colors. That means that I worked contrariwise the way I’d work at present. Now I’d paint the model with the base color (Panzergrey, in this case), then I’d make white washes on it (just the way it actually happens).
In this case I practically…revitalized the white camo of the Panzerbefehlswagen III Ausf.K (Sd.Kfz.267) with a very fluid acrylic white color. To spread it I used a 2 brush, and kept on working the color until it got dry.
Then I made the chipping and the weathering of the white camo with a sponge and a 000 brush.
The pigment of the pastels, thinned with transparent matt acrylic varnish, has been used to make the white camo worn, too.
The rust streaks are made with acrylic colors (red and black, variously blended together). First, I moistened the area to work on. Then, I applied the color with a 00 brush, working it until it got dry, to remove every surplus and to soften the edges.
There were three different versions of the Panzerbefehlswagen, depending on the radio equipment:
- Sd Kfz 266 (FuG6 FuG2)
- Sd Kfz 267 (FuG6 FuG8)
- Sd Kfz 268 (FuG6 FuG7)
Moreover, I read somewhere that the more powerful FuG13 could replace the FuG6.
There are different opinions as for the gun (if it was either a real 5 cm KwK 39 L/60 – that’s the widespread opinion – or a dummy one) and if the turret could actually rotate.
Moreover, someone says that these vehicles had a hull Mg, which is missing in my model.
Stuff for experts…I’d like to spread further infos about that.
As usually, here are some pics:
There is a hevy coat of mud on the bottom hull and on the running gear, since I want to set the model in a diorama.
I used the tracks of the kit, and shaped them before the glue got dry to reproduce the sag effect.
In this pic you see both the 1,4 m. antenna and the star antenna, on the rear of the engine deck. A frame antenna featured the previous versions.
The 2 m. antenna, partially lowered, on the left side of the superstructure.
This vehicle carries the insignia of the II Panzer Division. This unit fought in Russia, under Army Group Center, and was the nearest German unit to Moskow.
The inverted Y, with a bar up on the right, is painted where no white camo was applied.
In this photo the armored visor on the right of the shortened gun mantlet is noticeable.
The smoke candles rack is made with PE parts by Eduard, and the cables are made with thin copper wire.
Here you see how worn the white camo is. However, the winter camo were made with washable paint, no long persistent, not even when recently applied…
My goal is to place this model in a briefing diorama…That’s why somebody rest his helmet on the vehicle.
The weld seams are made with heated and stretched sprue, which has been glued and then engraved with the pyrography.
A technician told me (relata refero) that the weld seams don’t rust. Therefore, while weathering the model, I underlined them just with washes of thinned greyish pigment.
The Panzer III M were featured by equipment for the ford, i.e. covers for the engine air intakes, controlled by the inside of the vehicle, hatches to close the engine air outlets, a raised silencer, etc.
The brackets of the tools are PE parts.
When I built this model I had in my stash these workable metallic hinges, and they were ideal to reproduce the hinges of the fenders. I can’t remember the name of the manufacturer, and I nevermore found such a realistic stuff. The cable of the black-out light is made with thin copper wire.
The holder of the star antenna on the rear of the engine deck.
I used a string to reproduce the towing cable, and I soaked it in white glue to make it harder.
The stops for the hatches on the turret side are detailed with copper wire and plastic rod.
The two digit numbers are dry decals.
The white camo is particularly worn on the lower edges of the turret…
The headpad of the commander’s hatch is made with plasticard, and the handles are made with metal sheet.
Finally, here are pics with the commander. I made this figure joining a Verlinden head to a Dragon body.
See you with the next post.